(fash) and in a dream I will dress up and fly #nyfw11

Fashion Week time has begun. New York opening of course, for S/S 12. For some strange reason, I’m usually not really into NYFW. I always catch the trend-train somewhat late and end up starting following catwalks right in the middle of London FW, skipping most of Milan and arriving at the end of Paris’s. But this year, things are different, or I’m hoping they are. I managed to follow some of the early shows in New York, hurray! So, quickly, a selection of my favourite collections in these last days: Derek Lam, Thakoon, Carlos Miele, Rachel Roy and my utmost favourite so far: Jen Kao.

— Remarks: several designers chose to play the trump card of the multiculti multicouloured trend this year. Fragrances and hues of Asia and Africa humming in the air… Derek Lam opted for some work wear X moroccan  mucharrabieh style, Thakoon repeated Indian patterns and Sari cuts X modern cuts, Rachel Roy decided that Mao collars and traditional Chinese peonies X minimalist outfits would perfectly suit our moods for individuality and globe-trotting, but also our everlasting desires for western simplicity. Not too sophisticated, not too unsophisticated. Fashion must take us beyond this: express our personality without hustling up too much our need for normality. Hasn’t this always been the challenge for ready-to-wear, ever since fashion became available to the masses? Yes, Sir.

Thakoon

Carlos Miele

Rachel Roy

Derek Lam

Why Jen Kao has enchanted me — Well, no need to tell you that I’m in love with birds and smooth fluid movements recalling their flights. No need either to say that I praise the woman who embraces the nature and its breath. So to me, that’s exactly what Jen Kao’s outfits do: they sublimate the woman-bird, she’s free in her outfits, taking this from the lightness and brightness of African dresses. I truly love the way fabrics and patterns are arranged together, so that the woman looks like a growing blooming plant, on which a white bird-hat would come to nestle.

ALL catwalk PICTURES taken from STYLE.COM